Engelberg is a black-and-white canvas of charcoal portray on a December afternoon. There isn’t any hint of the solar on this Swiss city and a thick blanket of snow cloaks every thing. The Twelfth-century Kloster Engelberg is hidden by a display screen of fog. 

The 900-year-old Benedictine monastery was based by Swiss warrior Count Konrad von Sellenbüren. The city’s residents imagine the nobleman had a imaginative and prescient and adopted an ox that got here to a cease on the jap finish of Engelberg Valley. Sellenbüren noticed cherubs on the summit of the Hahnen mountain. He named the realm Engelberg, or Angel Mountain, and the city got here into existence within the shadow of the mountain. 

Built in 1120, the Kloster Engelberg is likely one of the largest Baroque edifices in central Switzerland and was influential in cementing Engelberg’s religious id. For over 600 years, it prided itself as a hub of commerce and a centre of studying within the European nation. The resident monks have been additionally cheesemakers and have been identified for a particular delicate cheese that was carried by merchants to Italy to barter for leather-based and different items. In 1729, a hearth practically destroyed all of the buildings, which have been later delicately restored. Within the monastery’s church is a big, golden chandelier, sculptures, excessive ceilings with ornate work made by native artists, and stained glass home windows. The church’s west gallery holds Switzerland’s largest organ with 9,097 sounding pipes for 137 registers.

There is extra to discover on this alpine resort city, simply 35km from Lucerne and an hour south of Zürich. I comply with the Christmas lights strung between alleyways throughout snow-dusted neighbourhoods and stroll previous quaint chalets, practically empty cafés and ski bars—an in any other case boisterous spot to seize a drink or two—and open parks which have become playgrounds for pleasant snow fights. 

In the mid-Nineteenth century, the British got here to Engelberg for the unsullied mountain air and saunas as prescribed by European medical doctors, however stayed for the fun of mountaineering, and finally, snowboarding. Over the a long time, St. Moritz, Davos, and Zermatt rose to worldwide fame as the celebs of alpine tourism. Engelberg, equally praise-worthy, maintained a low profile however the 3,238m Mount Titlis nonetheless attracts skiers, and between November 2021 and October 2022 it obtained 8,27,616 vacationers. 

“You chilly?” my information Peter Niederberger asks as we make our method to the foot of Mount Titlis. We arrive on the valley station and hop aboard the eight-seater TITLIS Xpress cable automotive that soars summit-wards. Towering, frost-coated pine bushes flicker previous the window and a snowy Engelberg comes into view. Ice sits conspicuously the place aquamarine lakes thrive within the hotter months, however winter has an inescapable allure. The mountaintop can get colder by a number of levels with the bottom recorded temperature plummeting to -20°C throughout a very chilly winter, Peter says. 

We disembark at Trübsee center station, our first cease and the house floor of journey sports activities at an elevation of two,427m. The solar remains to be shy exterior and the temperature plunges to -6°C in winter. The climate isn’t excellent for snowboarding, however that doesn’t deter the strong-willed. A gaggle of youngsters clad in ski uniforms inch in the direction of the sting of a slope, after which in a single swift movement, glide down the slope. I watch them disappear after a number of bends. Skiing isn’t the one exercise on provide. 

Snow tubing—racing down a slope on a tube—and using electrical snow mobiles are equally fashionable. I strive each till the iciness will get the higher of me and I retreat to the cosy, wood-furbished Titlis Panorama Restaurant for warm goulash soup, home made tagliatelle with creamy tomato and bell pepper sauce, and gingerbread with whipped cream. While raclette (melted cheese eaten with meat or greens), rösti (a cross between hashbrowns and potato pancakes), and cheese fondue are apparent après-ski or post-ski fixes, Peter says locals desire less complicated meals of risotto and pasta. Food offers a renewed sense of vitality, pushing us to courageous the surface as soon as once more. 

The Titlis Rotair tram is chock-a-block with vacationers ascending the ultimate leg of the summit. The five-minute journey is touted because the world’s first rotating cable automotive that spins 360 levels, offering views of the steep rock faces, snow-stacked mountain peaks, and deep crevasses of glacial ice. The first view of Mount Titlis is as extraordinary as it’s grounding. Every inch of the glowing-white panorama calls for my undivided consideration. An synthetic collapse a 5,000-year-old glacier is decked in blue lights and ice thrones for photograph ops. A 150m-long underground tunnel results in the viewing platform on the south wall window, the place a journey aboard the Ice Flyer chair elevate reveals glaciers, fissures and skiers beneath.

As I put together to bid goodbye to Engelberg the subsequent morning, the solar makes a cameo for the primary time in per week. I pull up on the Bahnhof Engelberg, the city’s essential railway station, to board a prepare to Lucerne, simply because the rays create halos on prime of cliffs and mountain peaks. It appears like an angel is smiling down on the valley. 

Pooja Naik is a Mumbai-based journey author.