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Delhi’s famed restaurant Indian Accent opened its doorways in Mumbai earlier this month. The Indian Express went for a tasting session and right here’s what we expect.
If there’s one phrase that summarises the expertise of eating on the newly opened Indian Accent at Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre in BKC, it might be nostalgic. Exuberating finery and opulence, its interiors have a good time the town’s Art Deco fashion — the lighting and bar structure with massive mirrors and arches reminded us of an inviting popcorn stall in theatres like Regal and Eros of their prime, and giving it excellent firm are black and white footage of Liberty Cinema.
The feeling of memory isn’t restricted to decor, it seeps seamlessly into the meals. Imagine Delhi’s well-known Daulat ki chaat, a saffron-flavoured aerated milk foam with smoke coming from beneath — symbolic of winters within the Capital — and faux foreign money notes on the aspect. Or anticipate anar and churan kulfi sorbet, a palate cleanser plated in a smaller stress cooker, a reminder of the cooking set many spent their afternoons taking part in ghar-ghar with, of their childhood. It was served with a touch of bitter and candy anardana.
We visited the 75-seater restaurant helmed by culinary director chef Manish Mehrotra on a mid-week afternoon and to our shock, not a single desk was empty, together with the 2 non-public 18-seater and 10-seater eating areas. To our delight, nearly each desk presents a view of the Fountain of Joy. We took one of many cute couch seats that sit two (aspect observe: It is ideal for a date evening) and went for its 10-course chef’s tasting menu, accessible in each vegetarian and non-vegetarian choices.
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First arrived bite-sized blue cheese stuffed naan, paired with corn shorba. Although the sharp blue cheese is an acquired style, the shorba balances it effectively. Next got here one in all our favorite programs — 4 small plates of flavourful chaats. The tart-shaped papdi supplied the right combination of candy, spicy and sourness you want from a chaat. Their mini bowl-shaped bhature with chole within the centre and pickled onion on high left us pleasantly shocked — we weren’t anticipating this tiny chew to provide us a condensed style of the particular dish. Impressing us simply as a lot have been mildly chilli smoked eggplant served on a crispy plantain in addition to their candy and bitter churan ka karela served on a small disk made out of rice crackers. We washed down this riot of flavours with their orange bar fizz, an in any other case unusual soda drink that got here with an attention-grabbing honey chilli brittle.
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Then got here murgh malai, gobindobhog (an fragrant rice selection from West Bengal) and mushroom payesh with summer time truffles. While payesh is normally candy, the mushrooms and the sprinkle of summer time truffles introduced out a savoury twist, which complemented the hen very effectively. The concept, we learnt from head chef Rijul Gulati, was to serve hen tikka, one other Delhi’s favorite, however they needed to do it in another way and within the course of found that savoury payesh and tikka work very effectively.
After a few extra dishes — largely hits together with a comforting rasam made out of coconut and Kanyakumari crab with XO balchao and some misses corresponding to a really dry baked paneer pinwheel and beet and peanut butter chop with very thick and heavy goat cheese raita — we reached the primary course. If you’ve grown up in North India, you’ll know that nothing completes the primary course like butter naan, dal makhani and raita, and this restaurant with its roots in Delhi is aware of it too effectively. We had a mildly tangy hundred-layered paneer (impressed by hundred-layered lasagne) served with Kashmiri tamatar chaaman gravy as a part of the vegetarian menu and the entire seafood stew with crunchy gunpowder fried prawns, scallops and crabs served alongside chilli and uncooked mango curry because the non-vegetarian menu. The accompaniments — the wealthy black dairy dal, the paneer/hen stuffed kulcha and the unlikely mixture of wasabi and curd, as raita, providing the suitable pungency left us longing for extra. We spherical up this meal with the indulgent doda burfi treacle tart, with a pleasant caramel-ish aftertaste.
If there was a dish that sums up our expertise, it was their DIY kathi rolls with ghee roast soya boti, roomali roti pancakes, 4 sorts of chutneys and a salad of cucumber and radish. It was scrumptious and fascinating, identical to our time on the restaurant, with the chef and employees presenting every course with details about components and attention-grabbing anecdotes.
(With inputs from Sadaf Modak)
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First printed on: 25-08-2023 at 22:40 IST
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