It was, on the whole, a low-energy collection. Still, individual garments were high in sophistication, especially those with layered paneling. One coat in old rose had a chic rolled-up collar that riffed on aviation attire.

ALTUZARRA IS SOPHISTICATED

Tailoring, ruching, draping and layering were the winning formula for Paris-born designer Joseph Altuzarra in his refined-looking Spring-Summer fare. A Chinese white tunic-gown that was loose and open-necked had an angelic quality. Delicacy was in evidence in the minimalist black cord that tied the garment’s waist.

A gathered gown in camouflage green had sweeping panels of gathered fabric at the skirt that evoked a goddess in the wind. It was, the house said following the show, inspired by the windswept sci-fi movie “Dune.”

The best looks were also ones in which the designer, who has a Chinese, American and French background, mixed up cultural references. A silver Western trench coat was fashioned in voluminous proportions and layers, and its lower part had the feel of a Samurai hakama (skirt-like pants) with an Obi belt.

Altuzarra has shown versatility in his over 10 years of collections that have switched from the bright and joyful, to more refined and couture-infused, designs. On Saturday, it was a mixture of both.

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