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Hey there! I’m Elle Wignall, the Register’s Dining Reporter, and I wish I could text my dog.
Welcome to Off Hours, a new weekly newsletter on all things entertainment from the Des Moines Register. Authored by reporters and occasional guest writers, we’re hyped to show you what we get up to in our Off Hours — from camping to concerts to crocheting and everything in between. Let’s get this party started!
The Deal
Here’s the deal: This is the inaugural edition of Off Hours — We’re glad you’re here! — and it’s the first week of my 30s.
If you can believe it, I eat out a lot. A lot, a lot. Like, it’s sort of my job.
Outside of the actual eating part of dining, I love watching chefs at work, tinkering and tasting, trying to get the perfect crunch on a piece of fried chicken or shuck oysters cleanly for a serenely simple seafood platter or cook noodles just long enough that they’re absolutely al dente.
In my own kitchen, I’m markedly less adventurous.
We’re a busy household of two — plus our adorable mutt, Bert — so dinner is usually a sprint. I veer toward quick, plant-focused spreads or big pots of soup where the recipe says, “dump in and simmer.” (And, yes, even the dining reporter is not immune from cereal for dinner occasionally.)
Rarely do I cook meat. Frankly, I lack the confidence.
Give me 16 ounces of extra firm tofu and I’ll make you believe it’s chicken. But real chicken? I’m going to cook that slimy bird until my meat thermometer reads 165 degrees, and then I’m going to keep cooking because I don’t believe my meat thermometer. Great for safety; bad for taste, texture and willingness of my diners to try my food again.
The problem is with anything that once bled, really. I’ll make steaks so tough you’ll beg for A1. If there is a hint of pink in my ground pork, I’m worried the rest of the meal that someone’s going to up and keel over.
But I am 30 now, high time to harness the finer points of protein.
Cue me staring helplessly into the display case at Waukee’s Old Station Craft Meats.
Sausages and ribeyes and filet mignons, oh my! Nick Lenters, the butcher and owner, answered my questions, and we landed on a boneless lamb shoulder from MapleCrest Family Farm in Elkhart. I cradled it like a baby out to my car.
Overnight, I marinated my meat masterpiece in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and rosemary.
Nick suggested I roast it for a few hours at 200 degrees. Julia Child recommended 350. I met in the middle at 275 degrees.
After two and a half hours, my apartment smelled divine. I pulled the roast, carefully checked the temperature and forced myself to trust what it said. Wine was in order, so I cracked open the bottle of 2016 Fisticuffs Cabernet Sauvignon I was saving for a special occasion.
I put my lamb on the one fancy platter I own, and my boyfriend and I dug in slice by slice, no plates needed. Fat dripping down the shoulder as it cooked caramelized all the outside bits and held in the juicy moisture. It was fork-tender, and the rosemary sang.
I complimented myself repeatedly.
I made it 30 years without roasting lamb; I definitely won’t wait another 30. Now onto ribs and barbecue!
Got tips on cooking the perfect roast or ribs or, heck, even chicken? Send ‘em my way at ewignall@registermedia.com.
My Top 3: Des Moines Butcher Shops
1. B&B Grocery, Meat, and Deli: Since 1922, five generations of the Brooks family have been serving up fresh cuts of meat and to-die-for sandwiches at this classic south side deli counter. Managed by brothers John Jr. and Joe, every customer is immediately treated like a long-time member of their clan. I dream of the Dad’s Killer sandwich, which is almost too big to eat with roast beef, turkey breast, smoked ham, corned beef, three cheeses and like ten other toppings. Drool.
2. Old Station Craft Meats: After my lamb success, I can confidently say Old Station will be a regular stop on my grocery route. Unlike most butcher shops, it’s modern, spacious and impeccably clean. With a unique selection, including house-made sausages and Moroccan lamb koftas, and a variety of rubs and local beers, Old Station is a one-stop shop for anyone looking to start their journey to grill master.
3. Prairie Natural Meats & Seafood: A woman-owned store, Prairie Natural in West Des Moines is an organic butcher and seafood shop with out-of-the-box options like rabbit, veal and goat. Ask owner Alejandra Vidal Soler for advice; she’s a wealth of knowledge on how to make any cut simply exquisite. And join their Natural Meat & Seafood Club for discounts on their already wholesale prices.
GET ON THE LIST: Subscribe and get Off Hours in your inbox Thursday mornings!
Eat this, Drink that
Sweet Potato Latte at Horizon Line Coffee – $5. Pumpkin gets all the attention this time of year, but the subtly sweet SPL features the same warm fall spices of ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg, and you can actually taste the espresso. (Hallelujah!) The intoxicating smell alone is enough to make you bundle in a big sweater. Pro tip: dunk the toasted mallow and eat it at the very end.
Get it: The coffee shop is open Tuesday through Sunday, and masks are required.
Sweet Corn Cakes at Des Fresh – $8. Vegan and gluten free, these little patties of joy taste like fried cornbread. They’re smothered in vegan cheese sauce, salsa verde and aioli. Truly, chef’s kiss. Des Fresh moved from food truck to brick and mortar last year, but the weekend-only hours mean supply is limited. You need these sweet corn cakes in your life, so get there fast!
Get it: Des Fresh is open Friday to Sunday only. Keep an eye on their Instagram for hours, and consider pre-ordering online if you plan to take it to-go.
48 Hours Off
Saturday morning: Kick off the morning with the most Millennial activity ever: Yoga with the Plants. Hosted in its botanical oasis, local plant shop Art Terrarium and Yogi Olivia welcome all levels of participants. $20 gets you an hour of good breathing. Good luck leaving without a new plant!
Saturday night: Skip over to Teehee’s Comedy Club for a 7:00 or 9:30 p.m. standup act by Dean Delray, a comedian, actor and host of the podcast, “Let There Be Talk.” Teehee’s is a dark and cozy haunt with speakeasy vibes and plenty of booze, and ending the day with some serious belly laughs leads to great sleep, doctors say. Teehee’s doesn’t serve food, so make a night of it and grab dinner down the block at The Walnut before the show. Tickets are $20.
Sunday afternoon: Might I suggest getting lost in a corn maze? The Pumpkin Ranch in Winterset has a dizzying 10-acre maze including a treasure hunt to play along the way. Admission is $10 and includes tons of family-friendly activities like zip lines, an obstacle course and hayrack rides.
Lend a Hand
I’m childless and live in an apartment, so my opportunities to experience the youthful joy of Beggars’ Night are slim to none. But who doesn’t love seeing seven Elsas or listening to a corny joke from the precocious kid who will actually tell one? If you’re like me and want to fill the Halloween-shaped hole in your heart, sign up to volunteer at Night Eyes at the Blank Park Zoo. Volunteers help with everything from handing out candy to monitoring the Fun Zone. “Merry not scary” costumes are encouraged, and there are shifts available through this weekend.
Got volunteer activities we should know about? Send me tips at ewignall@registermedia.com or Insta me a pick of you in action @woodscommaelle.
Around Town
My Day Job
We’ve reached the end of the inaugural Off Hours! If you’re curious about what’s happening in Des Moines’ dining scene, keep an eye on my work here. And if you haven’t had enough fall for the day, check out my recent 24-hour guide to eating pumpkin everything around town. Next week, you’ll meet Isaac Hamlet, the Register’s arts & entertainment reporter and office Dungeons and Dragons expert. Stay tuned!
GET ON THE LIST: Subscribe and get Off Hours in your inbox Thursday mornings!
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