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Fendi kicks off hybrid Milan Fashion Week with optimism

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Fendi kicks off hybrid Milan Fashion Week with optimism

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Silvia Venturini Fendi’s mixed men’s and women‘s collection offered the perspective of looking out from the inside — a familiar view for many, since the coronavirus pandemic has forced drastic shifts in habits.

The white showroom, fitted with S-shaped sofas separated by billowing linen curtains, faced a projection of windows opening onto shadowy foliage. The images were transposed onto diaphanous prints layered over body suits and sheaths, while the windows were suggested in stitched trim on linen suits.

Runway luxury is about being seen in the world — and projecting an image. But the lockdowns and the shift to home working have refocused designers’ sights. For men, that meant some looser looks and layering, with impish knit beanies carrying the Fendi logo. A laser-cut jacket worn with Bermuda shorts was finished with slippers, the perfect Zoom meeting look.

Women’s looks were more disciplined and sophisticated. A fitted coat dress featured an open neckline, brightening the face, while an open-back knit tennis dress was paired with a severe visor.

This is a season for comfort clothes, and that doesn’t just mean comfortable. Garments offer some solace, like a silky puffer coat that cozily envelopes the wearer, and a feathery bag through which uneasy fingers can ruffle.

Coats are ombre: Nothing is clear, it is all shades and shadows. The color palate was mostly neutrals, black and white, with some flashes of red and pink. The silhouettes were clean and inviting, including bell sleeves on a straight coat dress, to crisp apron details over dresses and skirts, to a wavy sheer azure lace over a shirt dress.

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