An angular black bodice, that looked both couture and sporty, had a gathered and asymmetrical black skirt held by a large gold chain. It was a great look.

A loose ruddy brown suit in tropical-weight cool wool had giant gold buttons that were shaped a little like nipples and placed in exactly the right place.

Jewelry was, for spring-summer, in fact the standout part of the show. Schiaparelli, the house founder, was friends with the Surrealists such as Salvador Dali and evoked his creativity in wacky bejeweled creations. On Sunday, there was finger and toe jewelry, an oversized series of Zodiac necklaces, gargantuan sparkling gold exaggerated earrings and face pieces that recalled Schiaparelli’s favorite icons: the padlock, the lobster, the elephant head.

Uruguayan womenswear designer Gabriela Hearst delivered a varied and diverse collection in monochrome that broke out loudly into traffic-stopping color. The looks were deceptively simple.

A black leather coat had seams lined with zippers. A white cotton gown with tunic collar and Juliette sleeves was saintly looking, but it had panels of fabric down the skirt to give it a contradictory sporty feel with extra volume, weight and flutter.

Later in the collection she channeled her Latin American roots — Hearst runs her family’s ranch in Uruguay — some of the looks celebrated the poncho and bright colors. One vermilion look with vivid ethnic stripes, and sensual cutouts at the hips, was standout.