I by no means knew I’d take pleasure in rasam poured from a French press right into a Martini glass. I did not realise my papad might lend superb crunch to my dessert. I by no means imagined I’d style doodhi within the type of spaghetti. This was till I dined at Avartana at ITC Maratha in Mumbai. My current meal on the preview of ITC’s flagship up to date South Indian restaurant was eye-opening in additional methods than one. The authentic Avartana at ITC Grand Chola in Chennai was ranked thirtieth amongst Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023. It was one in every of solely three Indian eating places to be featured on the distinguished record. Its Mumbai outpost continues its legacy of celebrating the paranormal but fashionable aromas from Southern India.

_{Photo Credit: Avartana}

Avartana gives 5 tasting menus, every impressed by completely different motifs and storytelling targets: the seven-course Maya (mystical), the nine-course Bela (stunning), the chef-special eleven-course Jiaa (soulful), the thirteen-course Anika (grace) and the thirteen-course seafood particular Tara (glowing). At the preview, we loved a choice of dishes from every menu, aptly united below the title of “Kimaya” (divine). We had chosen to strive the vegetarian menu and had been happy to notice that the range and ingenuity had been equally matched with that of the non-veg part.

_{Potato Nest. Photo Credit: Avartana}

The amuse bouche was a mini Potato Nest topped with a pineapple and mint sphere. It broke aside with satisfying crispiness, flooding our palette with a refreshing burst of flavour. The first true style of Avartana’s signature fashion was within the Distilled Tomato Rasam that adopted. The broth was poured over recent coriander leaves and cherry tomatoes in a French press. It was then served to us in Martini glasses. Two sips had been all that had been wanted to persuade us – we might have this daily! The understated warmth of the black pepper and the smoothness of the rasam mixed to present it a uniquely therapeutic impact.

The rasam epitomised the pleasant steadiness that Avartana manages to grasp – the presentation of substances is unfamiliar, however the style is undeniably healthful. The dishes are experiments with a soul. They usually are not fancy reinterpretations that confound and depart one scrambling to discover a silver lining. Creativity and thoughtfulness radiate from the menu, plating, service and decor. 

_{Tempered Bottle Gourd. Photo Credit: Avartana}

After making a psychological be aware to request rasam refills, we started with the programs. For vegetarians, the primary to reach was the Tempered Bottle Gourd. The humble doodhi was nearly unrecognisable on my plate in its spaghetti-like avatar. I used to be virtually suspicious. This feeling of unfamiliarity is a contrived one, Chef Deepti Jadhav tells us. She explains that Avartana goals to create that obscure dissonance between the standard and the unconventional. It isn’t right here to ship what we’re “used to”. It is right here to problem our notions of what these easy, on a regular basis substances may be changed into. But when you dig in, Chef Deepti assures us, you may discover the roots.

_{Drumstick Dumpling. Photo Credit: Avartana}

She was not improper. The dish in entrance of us was product of doodhi. But we had a newfound appreciation for its texture and coolness. We (delicately) slurped it down with plum chutney and a multi-seed crisp. The Andhra mango ginger used to flavour the gourd is one in every of a number of hyperlocal substances that the restaurant takes pleasure in together with. Several of the important thing substances are instantly sourced from the Southern areas, because the crew needs to duplicate the appeal of the unique Avartana, Chef Deepti clarifies. The subsequent novelty was the Drumstick Dumpling with moringa broth. Indians are not any strangers to completely different vegetable stuffings inside dumplings and dim sums. Although unusual, allow us to let you know, that the selection of a drumstick filling, like this one, works marvellously.

_{Crispy Chilli Potato. Photo Credit: Avartana}

Next, we feasted with childlike enthusiasm on the superbly Crispy Chilli Potato – who might resist? It was spiced with Andhra-style vepudu masala and adorned with a buttermilk sphere. Another favorite was the Asparagus & Coconut Stew served with Idiyappam. Asparagus isn’t one thing one would normally discover on South Indian menus. Chef Nikhil Nagpal, the model custodian, defined how the vegetable was chosen for its capacity to maintain the give attention to the flavours of the stew. Additionally, we found that the stringy idiyappams pair fairly effectively with the crunch of asparagus too.

_{Asparagus & Coconut Stew. Photo Credit: Avartana}

The atmosphere supplied a harmonious backdrop to our culinary experiences. The banana leaf – the quintessential South Indian image – is a recurrent motif included into the decor. The shiny lighting is supposed to characterize the colourful daylight that graces the Southern states. The flooring has been impressed by conventional designs present in temples over there. The chandelier brings to thoughts the design of the cove of houseboats on the backwaters of Kerala. The crockery additionally serves as a reminder of the restaurant’s roots. Some of the programs are plated on granite serving dishes sourced instantly from Mahabalipuram. One of the extra vibrant items is crafted with resin from Pondicherry. Diners can thus count on a genuinely holistic expertise. 

_{Photo Credit: Avartana}

As we savoured the programs, we sipped on a beautiful mocktail known as Pickle Jar – a concoction of uncooked mango, celery, coriander and lime juice, with a touch of pink chilli powder. It was barely tangy and wholly refreshing and did not go overboard with sourness. We beloved the contact of serving it in a glass that truly resembled a pickle jar. The identical may be mentioned of the beautiful lemon leaf sorbet, which was served subsequent because the palate cleanser.

_{Spinach And Curd Cheese. Photo Credit: Avartana}

Our enjoyment of the meal didn’t waver at any level. We had been fascinated but once more by the delectable transformation of an on a regular basis veggie when the Spinach And Curd Cheese arrived. The inexperienced leaves had been formed like a potli and enclosed a yummy dahi tempered with mustard seeds and onion. It was served with an aerated rice cake and South Indian-style salsa. The dish as a complete was not like any palak sabzi or snack we have tasted. Even choosy eaters will not complain about greens on this scrumptious type.

_{Uthukuli Morel. Photo Credit: Avartana}

The subsequent course was all about indulgence. The Uthukuli Morel was among the many most memorable elements of our night. The wealthy sauce pays homage to Uthukuli, a small city in Tamil Nadu famend for its butter. It is served with butter toffee and mini Malabar parottas, which had been additionally slathered with butter. This was the one course that felt heavier on the system however we had no regrets. The flakiness of the parottas and the beautiful quantity of butter, when relished in such a setting, reminded us of the decadence of croissants and high quality French pastries. But there was one thing particular about seeing an Indian indulgence within the highlight on this particular method.

_{Jackfruit Rice with Okra Yogurt. Photo Credit: Avartana}

After this buttery binge, the Jackfruit Rice, steamed in a banana leaf, had a grounding impact. The jackfruit was superbly cooked and fell aside simply as we scooped up the rice and okra yoghurt. The delicacy has a hometown feeling hooked up to it. Even in case you’re not from the South, the dish looks like one you’d eat and cherish at a grandparents’ home.

_{Raw Mango Pudding with Ghee Candle. Photo Credit: Avartana}

Both the dessert programs we tasted had theatrical components to them. Flavour continued to reign, so we couldn’t complain. The Raw Mango Pudding comes with a ghee candle that may be really lit. As it melts, it lends the candy a fast jolt of heat. Ensure you rapidly crush the accompanying papad over it and relish the pudding.

_{Fennel Panna Cotta. Photo Credit: Avartana}

The subsequent course was extra hands-on. The Fennel Panna Cotta is designed like a hen’s nest. The sparkly nest is crafted with caramelised sugar and shelters a candy, delicious egg. The egg ‘white’ is the panna cotta, whereas the shell is product of cocoa butter. There’s a yolk as effectively, made utilizing mango and ginger puree. A small hammer is used to crack the egg and out flows the yolk! It’s a lovely visible spectacle; however even in case you’re not impressed, the mastery demonstrated within the steadiness of sweetness will win you over.

Avartana breathes magic into mundane substances at each step. We typically examine a unbelievable eating expertise to a journey stuffed with discovery and journey. This metaphor has by no means been extra becoming than within the case of Avartana, Mumbai. We would gladly retrace our steps and make the voyage once more.

• Where: Avartana, ITC Maratha, Mumbai – A Luxury Collection Hotel, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri East, Mumbai – 400099 (Near International Airport, Ashok Nagar)
• When: Dinner Only All Days, 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm (Prior Table Bookings with Menu Preference are really helpful)
• Price: INR 2500 – 4750 plus taxes, per visitor, relying on the course chosen.